In August and September 2019 Nic and I walked the Haute Route - the High Route - through the French and Swiss Alps, linking Chamonix and Zermatt. The walk took nine days and traverses below teh summits of 10 of the 12 highest peaks in teh Alps.
Our story is told in photographs as we did not put this together until May 2020 (thanks to the Covid-19 lockdown).
Day 1 - Chamonix to Trient (Sunday 25th Aug)
After a full day exploring the climbing mecca of Chamonix we were itching to get moving so out the door of our hostel by 0700 for our walk to Trient.
Soon after leaving Chamonix we were onto mountain trails and enjoying being away from large cities - our prior week. We passed through Argientere to early for any cafes to be open, finally stopping in Le Tour for a coffee break. This was going to be lush 'tramping'.
The first of 10 high passes for us was Col de Balme at 2,191m. It was hot work under a hot sun and penance for a week or so of city living, beer drinking and eating Swiss pastries and cheeses.
Col de Balme was a beautiful the spot for our last lunch in France for a couple of weeks, and we were soon descending to Le Peuty and onto Trient.
Tour groups on shorter walks using guides used mules to carry their gear. Evolution I guess - we seemed to be more prepared for nights under the stars, medical or navigational misadventures than most walkers, but all on our backs.
Day 2 - Trient to Champex (26th Aug)
Out the door again by 0700 we passed the pink church of Trient.
A wildlife crossing for Haute Route walkers. NZ and specifically the Te Araroa walk could learn a few tricks from the Swiss on this front - a function of money no doubt!
Crossing the highway we were quickly on a path following a lovely, and very old, bisse (water course) and on our way toward Fenetre d' Arpette (2,665m) for an early lunch stop.
Arriving at Champex-Lac in the mid afternoon in time for a very cold swim in the lake.
My swim and nude change in a very public spot was followed with beers and dinner in town.
As is usual, the accommodation was superb - as we continue to benchmark of NZ DoC huts.
Day 3 - Champex to Verbier
Wealth in Switzerland is everywhere, but a little less obvious in the mountains. As we moved from Champex toward Verbier this changed.
Alternative transport options near our hotel as we departed Champex at 0815 - a gentlemanly time to walk.
Quickly we were walking in forested hills with scattered farmed meadows.
By the time we reached Sembracher, a beautiful small town, we were hot and thankful for the public drinking fountains. Everything in Switzerland seems just right.
Leaving Sembracher we had a hard uphill (700m) to Verbier in the hot sun. Most walkers chose the cablecar but our goal was to walk the entire Haute Route unaided.
By 1400 we were enjoying an ale in what must be one of the most expensive villages in the world. A standard chalet can set you back 8 million pound. Rock stars like James Blunt, along with Bear Grylls and Richard Branson all have houses in Verbier. We were obviously at the wrong bar.
Day 4 - Verbier to Cabane de Prafleuri
Unfortunately we must move on. I'm not sure if the wallet forced the move or our desire to be walking and in the mountains.
We intended to depart at 0530 but a lack of moonlight held us until 0550. With head torches we heading into the forest and seemingly off route, up a Red Bull style mountain-bike track toward Les Ruinettes.
By 0900 we were enjoying a coffee at Cabane du Mont Fort. Here we met three walkers; two American, Brandon and Jess, and their friend, Canadian Rob. Through and through good buggers we figured almost immediately, and these three quickly became our evening entertainment and drinking buddies.
Col de Termin at 2,648m.
Col de Louvie at 2,921m.
And onto Col de Plafleruri 2,987m. by way of a rocky ascent.
And on into the grand Desert.
Cabane de Prafleuri is a large alpine hut - with 60 odd walkers the night we stayed. Dinner, as per most evenings, was large and filling - bean and barley soup, beef stew with rice, followed bya brulee for desert.
Notwithstanding the size, two showers and two toilets were meant to cater for 60. Our early arrivals each day ensured we didn't have to much trouble being washed and changed in time for pre-dinner drinks.
The Swiss are timely - dinner is at 1800, not 1755 and not 1805.
Day 5 - Cabane de Prafleuri to Arolla
A 0700 departure - again far earlier than the masses - had us at Col des Roux alone and early.
Over the other side we dropped to Lac des Dix where we saw our first marmots.
The walk along the lake gave us an hour or so of flatness, not common in Switzerland!
Climbing away from the lake we headed toward Cabane des Dix which is above Glacier Cheilon, at a height of 2,928m, for a coffee and lunch.
All other walkers this day avoided the walk to Cabane des Dix preferring not to cross the Cheilon Glacier. Not us though, and as you can see, Nicola had no problem with the odd glacier stream (this one was just above a reasonable drop-off).
And through the moraine field on the other side (looking back toward Cabane des Dix) toward Pas de Chevres.
Base of Pas De Chevres.
And onto the ladders.
Over the pass, it was on to Arolla.
Once in Arolla it was disappointing to find the glamping tent we had booked was some 300m below the village. Given our tiredness the camp ground had us cornered- no way were we climbing 300m for beer and dinner.
Never mind, our accommodation was superb so we spent the evening enjoying a sunset with an English couple, and eating cheese and salami crackers for dinner.
Day 6 - Arolla to Cabane de Moiry
Another Kiwi / alpine start, at 0600 after a slim yogurt for breakfast.
The only way out of Arolla is to climb, so climb we did. Before to long the climbing is over and we were descending toward Les Haudres where we hoped to find food and coffee. The village was closed.
We moved on to La Sage, a postcard village and well worth the slight detour. We found a lovely little store where we were able to stock up on fruit.
And on into the mountains once again.
Another warm day on a high pass - this time Col du Tsate at 2,868m.
From Col du Tsate our goal was Parking du Glacier adn the climb to Canbane de Moiry, a 500m vertical finish to the day .
This was a long day, 11.5 hours of walking. Our ales were very well earned, but well worth it. The view over the glacier, the hut and the company was superb. We dined with locals (well Swiss at least) who were there to help with an adventure mountain race that was to pass by tomorrow.
A lack of water (delivered by helicopter) ensured we were all equally unwashed and smelly. The beer was good.
Day 7 - Cabane de Moiry to Zinal
No early start today as we enjoyed cereal, bread, cheese, ham, tea and coffee. Swiss breakfasts!
Back steeply down the hill for 480m (v) to a sidle track above Lac de Moiry, and on our way to Zinal.
From the lake to Col de Sorebois (2,838m) is a climb of almost 600m.
Our welcoming committee in Zinal. In-fact they were there to welcome runners finishing a 55km mountain race.
Day 8 - Zinal to Gruben
A 0715 departure into the trees and toward Forcletta at 2,874m and on to Gruben.
Day 8 wasn't the most scenic of our trip, but still lovely. We ate wild raspberries along the way, arriving in Gruben mid afternoon. As was becoming habit, we enjoyed beers on the deck of the hotel with Brendan, Jess and Rob. We also met a Dutch girl walking the Haute Route with a Labrador - which is allowed.
Day 9 - Gruben to St Niklaus
Departure at 0710 for our final pass of the trip, some three hours away.
This was the first day we'd need to don raincoats as we headed toward Augustbordpass at 2,894m. Along the way leading runners in Swiss Peaks trail race passed us (opposite direction) on their way to Lake Geneva - the winners taking around five days to run the race.
Foraging or scavenging?
A restaurant sign in the middle of nowhere . . . really?
Yes.
In Jungen we met a Kiwi runner.
And further along we came across a 'barefoot' runner espousing the advantages of Bedrock sandals when compared to Luna's (my pick).
Burgers and beer with our friends Brendan, Jess and Rob - our last night together as we heading away in different directions. Nic's and my plans for a JMT walk were cemented as we now have an American logistics team ready to help!
Day 10 - St Niklaus to Europahutte
We departed early for Randa, unfortunately unable to walk the Europa trail as it was closed. Our detour required a 2-3 hour stroll alongside the main highway. We seemed to be the only two mad enough for this as when we arrived in Randa we met with many friends we'd made, who slept in and caught the train. No public transport for us!
From here the steep climb started - initially through a small village.
Saying goodbye for a second time.
And on to Europa Hut, again for beers on the deck in hot sun by mid afternoon.
Day 11 - Europahutte to Zermatt
Day 11, our last day. We were looking forward to a hotel, a good wash and some time off our feet in Zermatt, but we were both sad that our walking was coming to an end. We were fit, still enjoying each others company and that of the many friends we met, and were loving the daily high mountain passes. But all things must end.
The day started with a crossing of the Charles Kuonen suspension bridge, 495m long and 91 above the ground, and held by 8 ton of wire cable. An early start meant we could enjoy the bridge to ourselves.
Our early start paid off as we were luckily enough to spot a half dozed Chamois, native to Switzerland and treasured in the Alps (and good shooting in NZ).
The trail sidled along fairly sheer drops, and when to steep tunnels were provided.
Avalanche overhangs.
Tufternalp.
The Matterhorn above Zermatt.
And into Zermatt to finish a walk of 220km with 15,000m of height gain and loss over 11 lovely days. Great country, great people, and beers in the huts. Perfect. Oh, and the best of walking partners.
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