Logistics is one of the difficulties of an end-to-end tramp, no more so than a crossing of the Tararua Range, so I was in luck with Nicola having to work while I had time off. In luck in terms of a driver, but I was to head into this trip without my usual tramping partner. It was me and Charlie this time.
The plan was to get from Poads Road, east of Levin, to home near Mt Holdsworth over 3 1/2 days. The loose plan was to follow the Te Araroa Trail to Waiopehu Hut and duck off at Waiopehu Peak for Oriwa and the upper Otaki.
From Otaki Hut I'd hump it up to Kelleher on the main range and either head north toward Dracophyllum Hut or south to Nichols Hut depending on weather, fitness and timing remaining.
I had read about trout in the Park Forks area so hoped to have a look there for a future fishing trip before climbing to McGregor, and home over Jumbo and maybe Holdsworth. I had a hard deadline with friends arriving on the 7th.
The weather forecast for the 4th and 5th was perfect for the Tararua's, and the 6th wasn't looking too bad, just a little rain, so at just after mid day on the 4th I was deposited at Poads Road and bidding farewell to Nicola.
Day 1 - Poads Road to Waiopehu Hut and on to Oriwa
I'd travelled the route across private farmland to the junction a few times in recent years, visiting North Ohau, South Ohau, Waiopehu and Te Matawai on separate occasions, so wasted little time getting onto the ridge track to Waiopehu some 8km and 750m higher than the carpark.
A BIG shoutout to the landowner who generously allows us to cross his farm for our enjoyment.
Still fresh, 20 minutes from the carpark |
The long and gradual climb toward Waiopehu passed with Charlie getting used to her new dog-pack. At two years old she's finally able to carry her own food, so carry it she can! In order to keep it balanced, as food is eaten my gear replaces it - a win-win.
Bush Corner is a non event being nothing but a slight bend in around 7km of bush track with many bends, but it's an indicator that the hut is only 1.5km away.
A quick stop at the hut for a chat with a nice couple who have seen a lot of the Tararua's over the years and I was on my way toward Waiopehu and on to Oriwa Lake for the evening.
View north along the Waiopehu Ridge |
I took a route directly from Waiopehu to points 975, 970 and 1015, then onto the dry lake just shy of Oriwa peak.
Oriwa Ridge Biv (Topo 50: BN33 982 863) was removed in 2007, surviving 40 years on the ridge, and the Oriwa Lake is long dry, however I knew there was a water-tank at the lake, fed off a small roof constructed when the biv was removed, and good camping just inside the bush edge on the east side.
Oriwa Lake water collection |
The Penthouse suite for the evening |
The Oriwa weather station |
I was woken at 2:00am by a dog barking nearby, setting off Charlie in reply. I was a little concerned that I'd soon be visited by a hungry and wild dog, but by 3:00am had decided I was safe so drifted off once again.
Day 2
I was away from the 'lake' by 6:30am and navigating down a long bush-clad ridge that met the Otaki River at the confluence of Murray Creek.Oriwa is the high point. Route from there down to Otaki Hut
Otaki River at Murray Creek Otaki Brown
Around 2015 DoC put a two-bunker hut into the upper Otaki. This is the first hut in the area for over 35 years, since the original hut was removed in 1979 to become the new Andersons hut. Although DoC has requested that the public don’t stay in the hut, it is open and would be a useful emergency shelter. In any case there is great camping around the hut.
Otaki Hut |
Arriving at the hut at 8:30 I was surprised to meet four others. They'd hopped into the Otaki below Butcher Saddle and were headed to Waitewaewae Hut then onto Island Forks - a beaut trip over a few days, and one now on my list. These jokers knew the Tararua's very well.
One of the the guys I'd met at Otaki Hut warned me of the steep climb onto the ridge behind the hut. For 120m it was bloody steep alright, but once on the ridge the pace was easier, from around 550m to around 950m. From there to Kelleher at 1182m it was a grind once again.
The odd disk shows the way |
Kelleher is but a brief opening in the bush ridge that extends from Nichols in the south right through to Pukematawai 4 1/2km to the north. It was bloody hot out of the trees, with the last 280m a decent grunt.
From Kelleher it's a short drop down to the Te Araroa Track that runs along the main range. My route was south to Nichols Hut, then down to the Dorset Creek confluence with the Waiohine River for the evening.
However, dropping off Kelleher I somehow twisted my left knee. It didn't seem too bad at all to start with so I wandered off towards Nichols without giving it to much thought, but quickly I slowed as it worsened. What should have taken an hour eventually took me just shy of 2 1/2 hours, and by the time I got to the hut I was using two walking poles, with very little weight able to go on my leg.
Nichols Hut |
Once at the hut I knew I needed to hatch a plan as there was no way I was walking on. I met a bloke at the hut who offered to do all that he could, but with a Garmin 66i at hand I was well self-contained, if needed.
The bloke was on a week long trip visiting the last of the Tararua huts, so knew his way around well. Having only lived in NZ for five years, I was well impressed with his Tararua resume.
A loo with a view - the Waiohine Valley from Nichols Hut |
I had thought of waiting overnight to see if things improved, but knew the weather was going to worsen and the reality of walking out was slim, very slim, so I fired up the Garmin 66i and suggested to Nic that she plan on two for dinner.
Nic contacted the Police and was soon relaying a damage report and weather forecast for the hut. Interestingly the Wairarapa's own Amalgamated Helicopters is not used when it's a 'medical extraction' and not a S&R. This seems bloody stupid given my predicament. In any case within a couple of hours the Westpac Rescue team from Wellington were landing at the hut and did a superb job of getting me out of the hills.
We're very lucky in NZ to have such a great rescue service. On the day I was picked up both the Wellington Westpac Rescue and the Palmerston North's Greenlea Rescue teams were flat out getting people to hospital or out of predicaments like I was in.
Landing at Nichols Hut |
50m to the front door - closer than the hospital for the Westpac crew |
And now it's off to the doc to assess the damage.
Trip Times
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